Milk! by Mark Kurlansky

Author:Mark Kurlansky
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

With an abundant availability of factory-made American cheeses that melted well, America developed a melted-cheese cuisine—cheeseburgers, grilled cheese, macaroni and cheese—that became quintessentially American. But melted-cheese cooking was not new, nor was it uniquely American. In Italy there was pizza, and in Brittany, cheese crepes. The Swiss national dish, dating from the sixteenth century, is melted cheese and wine in the form of fondue. Americans started to embrace them all.

There was also Welsh rabbit, which in the twentieth century became popular in a number of countries, including the United States. Today the melted cheese dish is usually called “rarebit,” meaning a tasty morsel, because it so obviously isn’t a rabbit. It is assumed that “rabbit” was an erroneous label. The earliest record in 1725 called it rabbit and no one used “rarebit” until 1780. It is also not clear if it is originally Welsh. The English like to use the term “Welsh” pejoratively—when something is second-rate or fake, they call it Welsh. So calling the dish a Welsh rabbit might have been a bad English joke. Was the dish originally English? The cheese traditionally used to make it is either Gloucester or cheddar, which are both English cheeses.

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